Château de Chenonceau: The Ladies’ Château

France’s Loire Valley is renowned for its stunning landscapes and fairytale castles. The region is home to hundreds of châteaux, each more spectacular than the last. Amidst all these historical gems, the Château de Chenonceau stands out for its unique style and fascinating history. Situated on the Cher River, this grand château has witnessed a lot over its 500-year lifespan. Nicknamed the Château des Dames (Ladies Château), its history centres around a series of prominent women.

From Medieval Fortress to Renaissance Jewel

The Château de Chenonceau was built in 1514-1522 on the foundations of an earlier fortified castle and mill. Thomas Bohier, a court minister to the king, acquired the property in the early 16th century and had the old castle demolished to make way for this Renaissance masterpiece. Much of the work and design was overseen by his wife, Katherine Briçonnet, the first lady of Chenonceau. The couple’s motto, “S’il vient à point, me souviendra (If the castle is finished, it will preserve my memory), is engraved on doors, mantlepieces, and floors throughout the château.

A few remnants of the previous medieval castle have survived. Most notably, the Marques Tower, named for the family who owned the original property, stands prominently in the forecourt just outside of the main entrance. It was altered to match the Renaissance style of the new château. The original well situated next to the tower is also a holdover from the earlier medieval castle.

The Queen and the Mistress

After Thomas Bohier’s death, Chenonceau was seized by the French crown for repayment of debts. King Henri II later presented the château as a gift to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Diane spent many years at Chenonceau and made significant changes to the estate. It was she who commissioned the elegant arched bridge extending out from the château to the opposite bank of the Cher River. She also added formal gardens to the grounds.

After the king’s death in 1559, his widow, Catherine de Medici, had Diane removed from Chenonceau and took up residence here herself. Catherine also left her mark on the château. She added a formal garden of her own and had a gallery built over Diane de Poitier’s bridge, transforming it into a magnificent ballroom, where she hosted extravagant parties. In 1560, the first-ever fireworks display in France took place at Chenonceau as part of a lavish celebration to mark her son, François II’s ascension to the throne.

The Grieving Widow

Catherine de Medici bequeathed the Château de Chenonceau to her daughter-in-law, Louise de Lorraine, who withdrew to the castle after the assassination of her husband, King Henri III in 1589. Heartbroken by her husband’s sudden death, Louise spent the remainder of her years at Chenonceau in prayer and mourning. Dressing only in white as was customary for royal mourning, she was nicknamed the White Queen.

Louise had her bedroom at Chenonceau painted black and the walls, ceiling, and draperies adorned with symbols of mourning, including white feathers, tears, spades, and crowns of thorns. The room has been reconstructed based on the original ceiling and is one of about 20 rooms that are open to visitors. Louise de Lorraine was the last queen to inhabit Chenonceau and after her death, the château fell into decline.

A New Era

After a century of near abandonment, the Château de Chenonceau received a new lease on life when Louise Dupin came on the scene in 1733. A strong proponent of the burgeoning Enlightenment movement in France, Louise was greatly admired for her intelligence and beauty. She hosted a literary salon at Chenonceau which attracted the great philosophers of the day, including Voltaire, Rousseau, and Montesquieu. Madame Dupin is also credited with saving the château from destruction during the French Revolution.

Wartime at the Château

In 1913, Chenonceau was purchased by the wealthy Menier family, proprietors of the successful Menier chocolate company. When war broke out in 1914, they transformed the château into a military hospital to care for wounded soldiers. The expansive Renaissance-era kitchens on the lower level were refitted with modern equipment and hospital beds were installed in the gallery over the river. Over 2,000 wounded soldiers were cared for at Chenonceau between 1914 and 1918. An exhibit on the second floor of the gallery recounts this time in the château’s history.

During World War II, the Cher River, upon which the château sits, acted as the line of demarcation between occupied France in the north and the free zone in the south. Due to the château’s unique placement straddling the river, it served as an important escape route for the French Resistance who were able to pass a large number of people into the free zone by way of the gallery. Not surprisingly, the German army kept a close eye on the château, with troops stationed nearby throughout the war, prepared to destroy it. Astonishingly, the château survived the war almost fully intact. The loss of the chapel’s stained glass windows was the only major damage it suffered.

Chenonceau Today

The Château de Chenonceau is the most popular of all the castles in the Loire. In fact, it’s the second most visited château in all of France after the Château de Versailles. It features beautifully decorated interiors with period furniture, tapestries, and an impressive collection of Old Master paintings by the likes of Tintoretto, Rubens, and Van Dyck. The château is lovingly maintained and decorated with bouquets of fresh flowers grown in its own gardens and greenhouses.

While the château itself is the main attraction, I would recommend taking some time to explore the extensive grounds as well. In addition to the impressive Renaissance gardens installed by Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici, there is also a hedge maze, vegetable and flower gardens, a 16th-century farm, a carriage gallery, and acres of beautiful parkland. It’s a lovely place to spend the day and immerse yourself in the elegance, beauty, and history of the Loire Valley.

Further Reading

• Château de Chenonceau Official Website: https://www.chenonceau.com/en/
• UNESCO: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/933/
• Loire Valley Tourism: https://www.france.fr/en/loire-valley