The Camino de Santiago: A Historic Hike Through Spain

I first became aware of the Camino de Santiago just a few years ago and from the moment I heard about it, I knew that it was something I had to do. In fact, I was astonished that I had gone so long without ever coming across it before. The Camino de Santiago is a historic pilgrimage route through Spain that dates back 1200 years. It spans hundreds of kilometres, culminating in Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain, the burial site of Saint James the apostle.

The Way of Saint James

According to legend, Saint James is thought to have travelled to Spain in the years following the crucifixion to minister to the pagan population there. After he was martyred in Jerusalem in 44 AD, his body was brought back to Spain to be buried. The legend of Saint James reemerged in the 9th century when his tomb was discovered by a Spanish hermit named Pelayo. Soon after, a church was built on the site and word of the discovery began to spread, prompting Christians from far and wide to journey to Santiago de Compostela to pay homage to the saint.

The pilgrimage to Santiago grew in popularity during the Middle Ages. It quickly became one of the most important and well-travelled pilgrimage routes in Christendom, drawing thousands of pilgrims each year from all over Europe. As Santiago’s importance as a pilgrimage site grew, infrastructure along the route was built up to provide shelter, food, and protection to pilgrims, a tradition that lives on to this day.

Rediscovering the Camino

Following its heyday in the 12th and 13th centuries, interest in the Camino began to decline with fewer and fewer pilgrims making the trek each year. It was revived in the 1980s and 90s, thanks, in large part, to the efforts of a Spanish parish priest who dedicated himself to retracing, mapping, and marking the path of the medieval Camino. Today, the Camino de Santiago once again attracts pilgrims from far and wide. Hundreds of thousands of people walk the Camino every year from all walks of life and all corners of the globe. Some, like the pilgrims of the Middle Ages, are religiously motivated but the reasons for walking the Camino in the 21st century vary widely.

There is not just one Camino de Santiago. It is a network of routes that spreads across Spain, Portugal, France, and beyond. Traditionally, pilgrims making their way to Compostela would have begun their journey from their home, wherever that happened to be, and would eventually join up with one of these established routes that developed over time. One of the oldest and most popular routes is the Camino Frances or the French Way. It begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, a small town on the French side of the Pyrenees, and traverses nearly 800 kilometres. Usually when people talk about the Camino de Santiago, this is the one they’re referring to. It’s the most walked and best maintained of all the routes to Santiago.

Rituals and Symbols

There are many traditions associated with the Camino de Santiago, some of which survive from its early days and others which have developed over time. Modern-day pilgrims begin their journey by obtaining a credential, a pilgrim passport that is required to stay in pilgrim hostels along the Camino known as albergues. The passport is also used to collect stamps from hostels, churches, cafes, and other stops along the way and then presented upon arrival in Santiago to receive a compostela, an official certificate of completion.

The Scallop Shell has long been a symbol of the Camino de Santiago. After reaching Santiago, many pilgrims would – and still do – continue on to the coast to a place called Finisterre which was believed to be the end (finis) of the world (terre). When they reached the sea, pilgrims would obtain a shell as proof that they had completed the journey. These days, pilgrims attach shells to their backpacks while on the Camino to identify themselves as such. Many images of the shallop shell are found along the path, often used as route markers to guide pilgrims toward Santiago.

My Journey So Far

Ever since I first heard about the Camino de Santiago, I felt drawn to it. I knew that this was something I had to experience. As a lover of history, I relish the idea of walking this ancient route that so many have walked before me and taking in all the historical and cultural landmarks and traditions along the way. I’m also looking forward to the physical, mental, and spiritual challenges that the Camino provides. I’m trying not to plan too much so that I can be open to whatever the Camino puts in my path.

The Camino de Santiago revealed itself to me at an interesting time in my life. Though I didn’t know it yet, I was entering into a period of transition and transformation that would eventually lead me to move to Portugal where I now find myself, just a stone’s throw away from the Camino. At the time though, I was just starting to rediscover my love of travel. As I was just a few years away from turning 40, I was searching for a meaningful and unique travel experience to commemorate that milestone. So, when I heard about the Camino de Santiago, it felt like it was meant to be. Now, less than two months away from that big birthday, my preparations are well underway.

Gearing Up

I’ve spent the last few months researching and preparing myself as best I can. I’m not sure it’s even possible to fully prepare for something like this because there are so many unknowns. This will be a trip unlike any other I’ve experienced. As much as I would love to plan out every single day (as is my way), on a trip like this, that’s just not practical or advisable. If nothing else, I think this pilgrimage will help me to let go of that need for control and learn to embrace the unknown.

That’s not to say I’m completely unprepared. I’ve gone through a few guidebooks and perused the very helpful Camino de Santiago online forum. There’s such a wealth of knowledge out there from former pilgrims who are eager to share their experiences. Over the last two weeks or so, I’ve ramped up my preparations. I’ve purchased all my gear, finalized my packing list, and started going for long hikes with my pack to get my body used to the weight and long distances.

I’ll be walking the Camino Frances starting in mid-September. It typically takes about 33 walking days to go from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago with at least 2-3 rest days recommended, so I’m looking at about 5 weeks in total. The guidebooks break up the route into stages which correspond to days. Each stage is about 20-25km. That’s a lot of walking and I would be lying if I said I wasn’t a bit nervous. But I’m up for the challenge! I’m excited to tackle this once-in-a-lifetime adventure and, I hope you’ll follow along on my journey.

Further Reading

• Cathedral de Santiago: http://catedraldesantiago.es/
• Santiago Pilgrim’s Office Website: http://oficinadelperegrino.com/en/#
• UNESCO: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/669/
• Camino de Santiago Forum: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/