Convento de Cristo: Home of the Knights Templar

Steeped in mystery and lore, the Knights Templar left behind an intriguing legacy that endures to this day. Countless stories have been told about this shadowy and powerful organization – some true and others mere stuff of legend. One thing that is true, and that you might be surprised to learn, is just how big a role the Templars played in the history of Portugal, a country where they held tremendous power for over five centuries. There are several historic sites related to the Templars that you can visit in Portugal today. One of the most extraordinary is the Convento de Cristo (Convent of Christ) in Tomar. This UNESCO world heritage site is a wonderous labyrinth that offers a fascinating look into their storied past.

The Rise and Fall of the Knights Templar

The Knights Templar were a religious military order founded in 1119 to protect pilgrims travelling to the Holy Land. The order was endowed with special privileges, including an unprecedented level of autonomy. Exempted from paying taxes or recognizing the authority of any monarchs, the Templars swore loyalty only to the Pope.

During their two hundred year run, the Knights Templar amassed considerable wealth and influence throughout Europe. Despite taking vows of poverty, the Templars acquired lands, property, money, and other riches to rival that of European monarchs of the time. This created a great deal of resentment from said monarchs which ultimately led to their demise. After being persecuted by the French king, Philip IV, the Order of the Knights Templar was officially disbanded by Pope Clement V in 1312.

In Portugal, however, the Knights Templar lived on. A few years after the dissolution of the Templars, King Dinis re-established the order under a new name, the Order of Christ, to which he transferred all of the Templars’ wealth and property. He also ensured that the powerful new order – Templars in all but name – was now firmly under the authority of the Portuguese crown.

Architectural Wonders

Centuries later, the legacy of the Knights Templar lives on through stories and legends, and, in a more tangible sense, through the places they built and inhabited. One such place is the Convento de Cristo, a monumental walled fortress perched high above the medieval town of Tomar in central Portugal. This castle and the convent housed within its fortified walls was once the headquarters of the legendary order of knights.

The Templar stronghold was founded in 1160 by Grand Master Gualdim Pais. From its twelfth century beginnings, the convent continued to be expanded over the subsequent five centuries and the result is a unique mix of architectural styles. Elements of Romanesque, Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, Mannerist, and Baroque architecture are all on display here. The massive scale of the hilltop site is offset by its peaceful wooded surroundings and serene atmosphere. It’s an enchanting place to lose yourself in for a few hours.

One of the convent’s most striking features is its 12th century Charola, a stunning 16-sided chapel modeled after the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. Legend has it that the circular design of the Charola enabled knights to attend mass on horseback. The Baroque frescos added to the walls in the 16th century further enhance the grandeur of the space. This was one of many enhancements made over the years which reflect the immense wealth of the Order of Christ.

Wealth and Power

It was, in large part, the wealth of the order which enabled Prince Henry the Navigator – Grand Master from 1417 to 1460 – to finance Portugal’s Age of Discoveries in the 15th century. The distinctly Portuguese Manueline style of architecture which developed out of that period is on display throughout the site. The highly ornamental style, characterized by its use of nautical motifs, was an homage to the maritime voyages of Portuguese explorers. It also often incorporates the cross of the Knights Templar, a symbol which came to be associated with Portugal itself. Of note is the spectacular Manueline window decorating the outside of the Chapter House.

The Convento de Cristo in made up of several cloisters built at different times, each one with its own unique character. The classic Renaissance architecture of the main cloister stands apart from the rest for its understated elegance. Situated in the centre of the complex, it feels like something of a respite from the frenzied, ornate architectural styles found throughout the rest of site. The Renaissance movement which dominated western European art and architecture in the 15th century did not arrive in Portugal until much later. This cloister, completed in 1587 is one of the country’s finest examples of the elegant, refined style.

Frozen in Time

To fully appreciate all that the Convento de Cristo has to offer, you’ll need at least a few hours. There’s a lot to see and I recommended taking your time and soaking it all in. During my visit, there were many times when I found myself completely alone in some silent, tucked away corner of the convent which very much enhanced my experience. For a few hours, I was completely disconnected from the modern world outside those walls. It was as if I’d stepped through a magic portal and landed in the middle of the 14th century.

One particular instance stands out in my mind. I was making my way through a self guided “tour” trying my best not to get lost but failing miserably as I walked hopelessly around in circles. I swear I must have walked through the same cloister at least five times, each time going in a different direction only to somehow find myself back there again at the end of each detour. Eventually, I walked into a part of the convent that I hadn’t seen before.

I stepped through a doorway and found myself standing at the end of a long dimly lit corridor lined with small wooden doors. A sign at the entrance told me this was the dormitory. A few of the doors were open so I could peek inside at the small windowless cells. I was completely alone in there, free from all outside influences and distractions. As I walked slowly down the hall, it was eerily silent. The only sound was that of my footsteps echoing off the stone walls. In my mind, I could clearly envision a procession of robed monks making their way to those little rooms by candlelight. For me, it’s moments like these that make visiting a historic site such as this one truly worth the price of admission.

Further Reading

• Convento de Cristo official website: http://www.conventocristo.gov.pt
• UNESCO World Heritage listing: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/265
• History of the Knights Templar: https://www.history.com/topics/middle-ages/the-knights-templar