Germany

German Christmas Markets: A Historical Holiday Tradition

Every year in the weeks leading up to Christmas, city squares across Europe are transformed into elaborate marketplaces filled with twinkling lights, enticing aromas, and a joyful festive atmosphere. Christmas markets have become a staple of the holiday season in numerous European cities and attract millions of visitors eager to soak up a little bit of holiday spirit. Germany, where the tradition originated, sees some 2500 to 3000 Christmas markets each year. Last year, I got to experience the magic of the German Christmas market first-hand and it became quite clear to me why it has become such a cherished holiday tradition.

Cologne Christmas market
Evening at the Christmas Market in Cologne
Christmas Market Origins

Many notable Christmas traditions originated in Germany. Christmas trees, advent calendars, and gingerbread houses all have German roots. It is perhaps unsurprising then that Germany is also the birthplace of the Christmas market. The markets date back to the medieval era with some German cities tracing theirs as far back as the 15th century. Dresden is believed to be the home of the oldest one, dating back to 1434.

Cologne Christmas market
Christmas market stalls

The earliest Christmas markets were not directly related to Christmas at all, but just happened to take place at Christmastime. In the late Middle Ages, churches held such markets regularly, and the winter market was typically the biggest, with local artisans and merchants selling food and goods. These winter markets grew in popularity throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, and eventually came to be directly associated with the Christmas holiday complete with festive decor and Christmas treats and gifts for sale.

Growth and Change

The onset of the Industrial Revolution in the early 19th century had a significant impact on Christmas markets. The rising standard of living and emergence of the working class which accompanied it increased the popularity of the Christmas market even further. Cities across Germany began to host bigger and more elaborate Christmas markets as they became a mainstay of the holiday season. In Berlin, the Christmas market doubled in size from 303 stalls in 1805 to more than 600 in 1840.

Cologne Christmas market
Heinzels Wintermärchen, Cologne

By the end of the 19th century, the emergence of downtown department stores signaled another change for German Christmas markets. Owners of these new stores, wanting to avoid competition, campaigned to have them moved out of the city centres. In response, many cities relocated their Christmas markets to the outskirts where they experienced significant decline for the next few decades.

Cologne Christmas market
Angel Market, Cologne
20th-century Christmas Markets

The Christmas markets were revived in the 1930s when the Nazi party came to power in Germany. The Nazis sought to transform Christmas from a religious holiday to one that celebrated German heritage and traditions. In addition to rewriting Christmas carols and filling advent calendars with Nazi propaganda, they relocated Christmas markets back to the city centres and reappropriated the tradition to suit their nationalist agenda. They also standardized stall decorations and specified the types of items vendors could sell with a firm focus on German-made products.

These changes were also economically motivated. In the midst of the Great Depression, Nazi leaders believed that the promotion of German-made goods could help stimulate the economy and raise spirits. Their plan proved quite successful as people once again flocked to the revamped Christmas markets. The Berlin Christmas market saw a record 1.5 million visitors in 1934 and 2 million in 1936.

Cologne Christmas market
Heinzels Wintermärchen, Cologne

While most Christmas markets were halted during World War II, they were revived once again in the post-war period and their popularity only grew from there. By the 1980s, Christmas markets had become celebrated tourist attractions and had begun popping up in other countries as well. Today the German Christmas markets are more popular than ever. They have become beloved cultural events with masses of visitors descending on them each year.

Aachen Christmas Market

My recent Christmas market adventures took me to Aachen and Cologne in northwestern Germany. Aachen’s historic old town is the perfect backdrop for its lively Christmas market. 120 stalls are set up in the vicinity of Aachen’s two most significant historical sites – the 1,200 year old cathedral which hosted German coronations for hundreds of years and the town hall built on the foundations of Charlemagne’s monumental palace from which he ruled over his empire.

Aachen Christmas market
Aachen Christmas Market

The Aachen Christmas market was a great introduction to this German holiday tradition. I got to try some Aachener Printen, a local specialty similar to gingerbread and sip hot chocolate from an adorable boot-shaped mug. My first evening there – a Sunday – the market was buzzing with people, but when I returned the next day in the afternoon, it was less crowded and, in my opinion, more enjoyable. If you’re planning to visit any Christmas markets, I highly recommend trying to visit on weekdays when the crowds are thinner.

Aachen Christmas market
Palace of Charlemagne, now the Aachen Town Hall
Cologne Christmas Markets

After two days in Aachen, I made my way to Cologne which has a reputation for being one of the top Christmas market destinations in Germany. The city hosts not just one Christmas market, but several, each with its own distinct theme and vibe. I visited four of them. The most popular is the Weihnachtsmarkt, located in the shadow of Cologne’s famous cathedral. This is a classic Christmas market with red-roofed wooden stalls assembled under a blanket of twinkling lights. It also features a large Christmas tree-topped stage where rotating musical performances add to the festive atmosphere.

Cologne Christmas market
Weihnachtsmarkt, Cologne Cathedral

The largest – and my personal favourite – market in Cologne is the Heinzels Wintermärchen. Spread out over two large squares in Cologne’s old town, this Christmas market features a large skating rink and a fun fairytale/woodland theme. Its mascot is the Heinzelmännchen, a mythical gnome-like figure of local legend. According to said legend, these little house gnomes used to do all the housework of Cologne’s citizens while they slept. Then one night, a tailor’s wife, curious about them, scattered peas onto the floor to catch them in the act which caused them to slip and fall. Infuriated, the gnomes went away and never returned, leaving the people of Cologne to do all their housework on their own.

Cologne Christmas market
Heinzels Wintermärchen, Cologne

Cologne’s Markt der Engel (Angel Market) with its white stalls and glowing stars has a dreamy quality to it. With cathedral shaped waffles, a carousel, and artisan stalls selling beautiful hand-made goods, this is the most beautiful and enchanting Christmas market in the city. Rounding out my list of Christmas markets for 2023 was the Harbour Christmas Market. This smaller market set up along Cologne’s waterfront has a fun nautical theme. With a big pirate ship at its centre and maritime imagery mixed in with the Christmas decor, this was definitely the most unique of them all.

Cologne Christmas market
Angel Market, Cologne
Christmas Market Traditions

While each Christmas market is distinct, there are a number of unifying features. Christmas markets in Germany are known for selling handicrafts, traditional food, and, the staple of every Christmas market – glühwein (mulled wine). The wine (and other warm drinks) is served in collectable Christmas mugs which guests pay a deposit to use. When you’ve finished with it, you can either return it and get the deposit back or keep it as a souvenir. Each market has its own mug design and some even have more than one variation so they make for a fun souvenir.

Glühwein in a collectable Christmas mug at the Christmas market in Cologne, Germany
Mulled Wine at the Heinzels Wintermärchen

Typical wares for sale include candles, paper stars, nativity scenes, knitware, toys, jewelry, and Christmas decorations of every type imaginable. Food also plays a big part in the Christmas market experience. A few of my favourites included:

  • Reibekuchen – fried potato pancakes served with apple sauce
  • Roasted, candied nuts – the source of the enticing sugary scents that permeated the market grounds
  • Handbrot – fresh doughy bread stuffed with a variety of fillings including mushrooms, ham, or cheese
  • Zimtsterne – star shaped cinnamon cookies
  • Spaetzle – a kind of German pasta made of tiny dumplings and topped with cheese
Various food and drink available at the Christmas markets in Germany
A few of the many culinary offerings from the Christmas markets

The Christmas markets typically begin in late November and operate daily up until Christmas with some continuing on into the new year. While its no longer necessary to travel to Germany to experience the magic of this holiday tradition, there is still something special special about seeing the place where it all began.

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