Our Lord in the Attic: Amsterdam’s Hidden Church

Amsterdam is home to some of the finest museums in the world. No doubt you’re familiar with the big ones – the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank House. Though they can often be busy and crowded, these well-known sites are popular for a reason and are definitely worth seeing. However, if you want to delve a little deeper into Amsterdam’s history, there are a number of fascinating smaller museums that you can visit. For something a little bit off the beaten path, check out the Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Museum of Our Lord in the Attic), a hidden gem with a fascinating story.

The Church in the Attic

From the outside, number 40 Oudezijds Voorburgwal looks just like any other canal house in Amsterdam. Built in 1630, this classic Dutch house in the heart of the city was the home of Jan Hartman, a wealthy Amsterdam merchant. But this is no ordinary house. Tucked away on the top floor, hidden from view, is a fully formed miniature Catholic church which Hartmann had built in 1663.

At that time, the Protestant Reformation had taken hold in the Dutch Republic and Catholicism was officially outlawed. While it was prohibited for Catholics to celebrate mass publicly, authorities would generally turn a blind eye so long as it was done discretely and not in public spaces. This led to the creation of clandestine churches like this one known as schuilkerks where Catholics could worship privately.

This tolerance for religious minorities was characteristic of the Dutch Republic in the 17th century and attracted religious refugees from other parts of Europe which were far less tolerant. Most notable were the hundreds of Jews who fled religious persecution in Spain and Portugal to establish a thriving community in Amsterdam where they became an integral part of the intellectual, economic, and social fabric of the city.

Dutch Golden Age

The 17th century was a period of great economic prosperity for the Dutch Republic, thanks in large part to overseas shipping and trade. In 1602, the Dutch East India Company was founded as the first multinational corporation and was granted a monopoly on the spice trade. This led to a period of unprecedented wealth and expansion in the Dutch capital.

The population of Amsterdam exploded during this period as merchants and immigrants flocked to the city in record numbers. As a result, the city council initiated a massive building campaign which saw the construction of Amsterdam’s famous canals and the gabled houses that have become one of the city’s most distinctive features. The increased wealth also led to a flourishing of art and culture in Amsterdam and other Dutch cities. Artists such as Vermeer and Rembrandt created their great masterpieces during what is often referred to as the Dutch Golden Age.

Daily Life in the Canal House

The other draw of this museum is the chance to peek inside one of Amsterdam’s famed canal houses. Before making your way up to the church, you can explore the well preserved rooms of this 17th century house. The elegant design and sumptuous décor transports you back to the Golden Age when Amsterdam was at the height of its power. This is one of very few canal houses which retains its original 17th century interiors as most have been extensively renovated over the years.

Here you can get a sense of what life in 17th century Amsterdam may have looked like as you wander through the labyrinth of narrow corridors and steep staircases. Typical of this type of house, the grand front room with large windows overlooking the canal was designed to impress. This room would have been used to receive guests so it was lavishly decorated with fine furnishings and artwork.

The rest of the house, where the family would have spent most of their time, is somewhat less grand, though utterly charming. You’ll pass through a small tiled kitchen, bedrooms with tiny beds tucked into the walls, and authentic 17th-century interiors that make you feel like you’re inside a Vermeer painting.

Entrance to the church was through a hidden door in the living room which led to a steep spiral staircase. The church, which seats about 150, still holds regular services on the first Sunday of each month. The building was opened as a museum in 1888, making it the second oldest museum in Amsterdam after the Rijksmuseum. For a closer look at Amsterdam’s Golden Age, be sure to add this charming museum to your itinerary.

Further Reading

• Museum website: https://opsolder.nl/en/museum-our-lord-in-the-attic/
• Amsterdam and the Golden Age: https://www.holland.com/global/tourism/holland-stories/golden-age/amsterdam-capital-of-the-golden-age.htm
• UNESCO World Heritage: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1349/